Jessie Newbery

Newbery founded the embroidery department at the Glasgow School of Art in 1894 and turned needlework from a drawing-room accomplishment into a design discipline. Her style, appliqué of linen shapes outlined in stitching, stylised roses and lettering worked into collars and cushions, became a signature of the Glasgow Style alongside Mackintosh's furniture. She also argued that embroidery should be cheap enough for ordinary women to make and wear, and her pupils, including Ann Macbeth, spread that idea through schools across Britain.