Congee

Roughly 50 cents a bowl before toppings, because a single cup of rice simmered long and slow makes a big pot of silky porridge. Cook it with ginger and a couple of chicken drumsticks and you have a soothing, savory dinner. The toppings are what make it feel lavish: a soft-boiled egg, scallions, a drizzle of soy sauce and sesame oil, crispy shallots or chili oil. It is especially welcome on a cold night or when someone in the house is under the weather.