Melbourne

Melbourne once did the capital's job: Australia's federal parliament met there from 1901 until Canberra's own Parliament House opened in 1927. Canberra today is a planned city of national institutions, rewarding for its galleries and the Australian War Memorial but quiet after hours. Melbourne is the opposite, built around laneway cafés, a serious coffee culture, live music and sport, with the Melbourne Cricket Ground close to the center. It is the better trip for travelers who like to graze through neighborhoods such as Fitzroy and Collingwood rather than tick off monuments. The weather can swing within a day, so pack a layer even in summer.