X-girl

Sonic Youth bassist Kim Gordon and stylist Daisy von Furth started X-girl as the women's sister label to the skate brand X-Large, and it became a shorthand for 1990s downtown New York cool. Its legend rests on one spring morning in 1994, when Sofia Coppola and Spike Jonze staged a guerrilla show on a Manhattan street as guests left Marc Jacobs, with Chloë Sevigny among the models. The New York chapter ended when the label was sold to a Japanese company in the late 1990s, and it still trades in Japan today. Small, short-lived in its original form, and more influential than almost anything else here.