Gelato

Gelato tastes more intense than ice cream for a plain reason: it carries less fat, and cold fat mutes flavor. Lower fat also means it takes in less air during churning, so it eats dense and silky. The catch for home cooks is serving temperature. Gelato is meant to be eaten a good 10 to 20 degrees warmer than ice cream, so straight from a deep freezer it turns hard; let it sit out before scooping, or serve it fresh from the machine. Pistachio is the flavor that most justifies making it yourself, because good pistachio paste beats the pale green versions sold in tubs.