Kulfi

Kulfi is not churned at all, and that is exactly why it belongs here. Its density comes from patience: whole milk simmered low and stirred often until it has reduced by more than half, then sweetened, flavored with cardamom, saffron or pistachio, and frozen in molds. The long reduction gives a cooked-milk richness and a firm, dense bite that no aerated ice cream can copy. The reduction keeps you at the stove for a good while, but once frozen it waits in the molds until you need it, which makes it an easy dessert to have ready ahead of a dinner.