Grand Seiko Hi-Beat

A vintage Grand Seiko Automatic Hi-Beat with day and date, in the broad, flat-sided steel case of the era. Grand Seiko began in 1960 as Seiko's attempt to build watches of high precision and quality that could compete on the world stage, and the 44GS of 1967 set out what the brand calls the Grand Seiko Style, a design language it still follows. What to look for is light rather than ornament: wide mirror-polished planes on the case, sharply faceted hands and markers, and a dial kept almost bare so those edges catch the light. It is a different answer to the dress watch from the Swiss one, and enthusiasts can spot it from the shine alone.