Hōnen-in

Just off the Philosopher's Path, and it feels like another city. A moss-covered gate opens onto two raked sand mounds that you pass between, said to purify the visitor, and the monks rake designs into them, one often reflecting the season. The grounds are free and open from 6:00, which makes this the best early-morning stop in the Higashiyama hills; the main hall itself opens only for short spells in spring and autumn. Come here first, then walk on to Ginkaku-ji for its 8:30 opening.