Raohe Street Night Market, Taipei

Cooks fold and bake pepper buns under the lit gate of Raohe Street Night Market, photographed in June 2019. That stall at the entrance by Ciyou Temple is Fuzhou Black Pepper Bun, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2018, and its line moves fast: the buns come out of a clay oven with crackly sesame crusts and peppery pork that scalds if you rush it. Raohe is a single lane of about 600 meters, so it is easier to work through than Shilin. Further in, Chen Tung serves pork ribs simmered in an herbal broth, the cup to warm up with on a cool night.