Temple Street Night Market, Hong Kong

Temple Street Night Market seen from the car park building at its northern end in Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, on a November night in 2016: a canyon of lit stall canopies squeezed between tenement blocks. Most of the stalls sell trinkets and clothes, so eat at the edges. Claypot rice cooked over charcoal, with its crisp crust scraped from the bottom of the pot, is the dish to order, along with typhoon shelter crab, salt and pepper mantis shrimp and clams in black bean sauce at the open-air seafood tables. Ask the price of live seafood before it goes in the wok.