Fettuccine

Classic sauce: butter and Parmigiano (all'Alfredo) Fettuccine are Rome's flat egg ribbons, and their broad surface is what makes a sauce of only butter and cheese work. Tossed hard with a splash of cooking water, butter and Parmigiano emulsify into a coating that clings to every ribbon; on thin strands the same mix turns greasy. Alfredo di Lelio made his name on this dish at his restaurant on Via della Scrofa in Rome. The heavy-cream American version is a different sauce. If you want the original, skip the cream and use young Parmigiano grated fine.