Long Island Grandma Pie

Square like a Sicilian but much thinner and crisper, with the dough pressed out in an oiled sheet pan. This one from Louie's Pizzeria shows the usual look: spoonfuls of crushed tomato dotted over mozzarella, with garlic and basil. The style began as home baking in Italian-American kitchens on Long Island; Umberto's in New Hyde Park is usually credited with putting it on a pizzeria menu, and it stayed largely a Long Island thing through most of the 1990s before New York City caught on.