New Haven Apizza

New Haven says "apizza" (ah-BEETS), and the classic pies come out of coal-fired brick ovens thin, chewy, irregular and properly charred. This one from Sally's Apizza shows both sides of the local menu: on the left, a plain tomato pie with just sauce and grated hard cheese; on the right, the same pie with mozzarella, which counts as a topping you ask for. Frank Pepe started it all on Wooster Street in 1925, and his nephew opened Sally's down the street in 1938. Order the white clam pie at Pepe's too.