New York Sicilian Square

The Italian-American descendant of sfincione: a thick, airy, rectangular pan pie cut into squares. These two come from L&B Spumoni Gardens in Gravesend, Brooklyn, famous for building its Sicilian upside down, with the mozzarella laid on the dough and a thick tomato sauce spooned over the top. That is why the photo shows red on top and the cheese peeking through underneath, with a crisp, fried-looking edge where the dough met the pan.