Pizza Fritta

Naples' other pizza never sees an oven. The dough is folded around a filling and deep-fried until it balloons into a golden pillow, as in this one served at a restaurant in Rome. The classic filling is ricotta with cicoli, crunchy bits of pork fat. It is cheap, fast street food, and most accounts tie its rise to the years after World War II, when many of the city's pizza ovens had been destroyed.