Sfincione Palermitano

Palermo's street pizza, and the ancestor of the American Sicilian square. The crust is thick and spongy, and the topping is a slow-cooked tomato and onion sauce with anchovies, a little cheese and toasted breadcrumbs instead of a sheet of melted mozzarella. That tall, airy base under a deep red, herb-flecked topping in the photo is the giveaway. In Palermo it is sold by the slice from bakeries and street carts.