Esquites

Two cups of esquites at a roadside stand in Mexico, with whole ears of corn charring on the grill behind them. Esquites are the spoonable version of elote: the kernels come off the cob into a cup and get the same treatment, with mayonnaise, crumbled cheese, a squeeze of lime and a heavy shake of chile powder on top. The stand sells both, so the choice is how messy you want to get. Take the cob if you are standing still and want the smoky char; take the cup if you are walking, and stir it all the way down so the last bite gets as much chile as the first.