Anchovies as food

Oil-packed anchovy fillets are the stealth ingredient of Mediterranean cooking. Warmed in olive oil with garlic, they collapse into the fat within a minute or two and leave behind seasoning that reads as savory rather than fishy. Two fillets melted at the start of a lamb braise, a pan of broccoli or a tomato sauce will rarely be noticed, only missed if you leave them out. Mash one into soft butter for steak or into a Caesar-style dressing. Salt-packed whole anchovies taste cleaner and meatier but need rinsing and filleting; jarred fillets in oil are the easy everyday choice.