Sant'Andrea al Quirinale

Via del Quirinale The best way to see Bernini the architect without a crowd. Built for the Jesuits between 1658 and 1670 on a cramped site, it is an oval turned sideways, with the entrance and high altar on the short axis, so the whole interior seems to wrap around you the moment you step in. Look at the altarpiece of Saint Andrew's martyrdom, then let your eyes rise: the saint reappears in marble, carved by Bernini's pupil Antonio Raggi, floating up through the broken pediment toward the coffered dome. It is a short walk from Saint Teresa, free, and closed on Mondays and over lunch.