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Supreme x Vans Old Skool (1996)
Supreme x Vans Old Skool, 1996
Supreme had only opened its Lafayette Street shop in 1994 when it put its name on three Old Skools, made in the USA with a small Supreme tab on the eyestay. It looks modest now, but it set the template that runs through this whole list: a small shop with a loyal following reworks a stock model and the brand lets it carry both names. The partnership went quiet for eight years before returning and becoming one of the longest-running in the business, and the Old Skool stayed at its center, proof that a collaboration could build a relationship rather than a one-off stunt. The picture shows the joint heel label from a later Supreme x Vans pair.
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HTM Nike Air Force 1 (2002)
HTM Air Force 1, 2002
HTM stands for Hiroshi Fujiwara, Tinker Hatfield and Mark Parker: a Tokyo tastemaker sitting at the same table as Nike's most famous designer and its future chief executive. Their first shoe was an Air Force 1 in black and white with the HTM mark on the footbed and eyestay, and almost nothing else. That restraint was the point. It showed that an outside eye could earn a seat inside Nike's design process, and the HTM line later became a testing ground for new ideas, launching some of the first Flyknit shoes in 2012.
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A Bathing Ape x adidas Superstar (2003)
A Bathing Ape x adidas Superstar, 2003
In 2003 Nigo's Tokyo label launched a modified Superstar, the Super Ape Star, in a small set of colorways that included its signature camo, then followed it with a mid-top Super Ape Skate. It carried Harajuku streetwear, then largely a Tokyo boutique obsession, onto one of adidas's most recognizable shells. The pairing went quiet for years before returning in 2011 and has resurfaced repeatedly since, including three-way projects with Undefeated. Its legacy is the idea that a Japanese streetwear label could sit on equal terms with a global sportswear brand, a balance of power the market now takes for granted.
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Undefeated x Air Jordan IV (2005)
Undefeated x Air Jordan IV, 2005
Before 2005, nobody outside Nike put a name on an Air Jordan. This olive pair for the Los Angeles shop Undefeated is generally credited as Jordan Brand's first collaboration with an outside partner, and only 72 pairs were made. The colors came from an MA-1 flight jacket, in keeping with the shop's military themes. Accounts differ on whether it went out by raffle or auction, but the precedent is clear: a sneaker store could now co-sign the most protected line in basketball. When the retro returned in August 2025, it stayed largely faithful to the original.
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Nike Air Yeezy (2009)
Nike Air Yeezy, 2009
The first Air Yeezy, in Zen Grey, arrived on April 4, 2009, and it was Nike's first full collaboration with someone who was not an athlete. Kanye West developed it from 2007 with Nike creative director Mark Smith, later joined by Nathan Van Hook. That shift, a musician getting the kind of creative control once reserved for basketball stars, is the real legacy: it opened the door for every artist signature that followed, on this list and off it. The Air Yeezy II followed in 2012 and the all-red "Red October" in 2014, by which point West had already moved to adidas.
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Ronnie Fieg x ASICS Gel-Lyte III "Salmon Toe" (2011)
Ronnie Fieg x ASICS Gel-Lyte III "Salmon Toe," 2011
This is the shoe that opened Kith. It launched on September 30, 2011, the day Kith opened its first store in Brooklyn, as the new shop's first collaborative footwear release, with 72 pairs in store and 300 online. Fieg had already been building colorways on ASICS runners, and his eye for materials and one unexpected detail, here the salmon-colored toe, made a little-hyped Japanese runner desirable in New York. The bigger lesson was commercial: a retailer could use collaborations to launch and define its own brand, a path Kith has followed ever since. Kith brought a remastered pair back for its 15th anniversary in September 2026.
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adidas by Raf Simons Ozweego (2013)
adidas by Raf Simons Ozweego, 2013
At his Fall/Winter 2013 show in Paris, Raf Simons sent out four reworked adidas models, including two versions of the Ozweego, a 1996 runner most people had forgotten. Its thick, layered sole looked awkward next to the sleek luxury sneakers of the time, which was exactly why it mattered. The Raf version is widely cited as a starting point for the chunky sneaker era that later took over both runways and mall stores, though calling him its sole inventor overstates it. It also showed a runway designer treating a sportswear archive as raw material rather than a logo to borrow.
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Supreme x Nike Air Foamposite One (2014)
Supreme x Nike Air Foamposite One, 2014
The shoe itself matters less than what happened in April 2014. Crowds outside Supreme's Lafayette Street store spilled past barricades into the street, police dispersed them on safety grounds, and the New York in-store release was called off while Los Angeles, London and online went ahead. It became the defining picture of a release system that had outgrown the sidewalk. The scramble to replace first-come lines with registrations, draws and app releases is easier to understand once you have seen the footage from that night.
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adidas Yeezy Boost 350 (2015)
adidas Yeezy Boost 350, 2015
After leaving Nike, Kanye West signed with adidas, confirmed in December 2013, on terms that let him keep ownership of his brand. The Boost 750 came first in February 2015, but the low 350 that followed in June defined the line: a knitted Primeknit upper on adidas's Boost foam, released worldwide rather than through a handful of doors. That soft, sock-like lifestyle runner became one of the defining shapes of the late 2010s. The story also carries a warning about building around one person: adidas ended the partnership in October 2022 after West's antisemitic remarks, then sold off the remaining stock with a share of profits going to charity.
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Nike x Off-White "The Ten" (2017)
Nike x Off-White "The Ten," 2017
Virgil Abloh took ten Nike and Converse classics apart and rebuilt them with the process left on show: the Off-White zip tie attached, and the shoe's main material printed on the midsole in bold quotation marks. Announced in August 2017 and split into two groups of five, "Revealing" and "Ghosting," it rolled out that fall and was fully released by May 2018. Its influence was on how a sneaker could talk about itself. Deconstruction, labels and the knowing quotation became a design language that rippled across brands for years, and it made a creative director from fashion the most important name on a Nike release.
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Sean Wotherspoon x Nike Air Max 1/97 (2017)
Sean Wotherspoon x Nike Air Max 1/97, 2017 to 2018
This shoe won a public vote. Nike's Vote Forward contest asked 12 creators to reimagine the Air Max, and Wotherspoon, co-owner of the Los Angeles vintage store Round Two, won with an Air Max 97 upper on an Air Max 1 sole, covered in multicolored corduroy inspired by vintage Nike hats. A small release in November 2017 was followed by a much wider one on Air Max Day, March 26, 2018. Two things stuck: the idea that fans could choose what a brand makes, and permission for playful, tactile materials on a performance runner. Fusing two classics into one shoe also anticipated the hybrids that followed.
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Travis Scott x Air Jordan 1 High OG (2019)
Travis Scott x Air Jordan 1 High OG, 2019
Flipping the Swoosh backward sounds like a small move, but on the most sacred shoe in the Jordan catalog it was close to heresy. The first pair, in sail, black and dark mocha with a hidden pocket, released on May 11, 2019. The backward Swoosh became Scott's signature, carried onto Low versions and later pairs, and it proved that an artist could change a brand's own logo and have the brand accept it. For Jordan Brand it also showed that a muted, earthy take on a classic could carry as much weight as the original team colors.
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sacai x Nike LDWaffle (2019)
sacai x Nike LDWaffle, 2019
Chitose Abe's label built its reputation on splicing garments together, and on her runway at Paris Fashion Week for spring 2019 she did the same to two Nike running shoes. The LDWaffle has a double Swoosh, double tongues and double laces, stacked over a raised sole. Sources disagree on which Waffle model it merges with the LDV, but nobody disputes its effect: after its main release on May 30, 2019, the hybrid became a standing format, with later versions made alongside fragment design, CLOT and Undercover. It legitimized the doubled, layered sneaker as a design idea rather than a gimmick.
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Dior x Air Jordan 1 (2020)
Dior x Air Jordan 1, 2020
Kim Jones set out to make the most luxurious Air Jordan 1 ever, and the result was made in Italy in Dior gray leather with an Oblique monogram filling the Swoosh. First shown at Dior's pre-fall 2020 show in Miami, the high was reportedly limited to 8,500 individually numbered pairs, with a smaller run of lows. It marks the point where a heritage fashion house stopped borrowing sneaker culture and joined it on equal billing, putting a basketball shoe on a luxury price ladder. The high price is part of the story, not a measure of its success: what lasted was the idea that a sneaker collaboration could be a luxury house's headline product.
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Aimé Leon Dore x New Balance 550 (2020)
Aimé Leon Dore x New Balance 550, 2020
The 550 was a late-1980s basketball shoe that had not been released in decades, so obscure that New Balance had to track down an original pair in Japan to rebuild it. Teddy Santis of the New York label Aimé Leon Dore found it in a vintage Japanese magazine, and in fall 2020 the brand brought it back in four colorways. The revival is widely credited with starting the 550's worldwide popularity and made archive-digging a strategy rivals have chased ever since. It also changed careers: New Balance named Santis creative director of its Made in USA line in 2021.
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Salehe Bembury x New Balance 2002R "Peace Be the Journey" (2020)
Salehe Bembury x New Balance 2002R "Peace Be the Journey," 2020
Bembury's first New Balance collaboration, released in October 2020 while he was vice president of sneakers and men's footwear at Versace, took the 2002R, a 2010 runner New Balance had recently revived, and dressed it in the colors of a hike: yellow mesh, hairy orange suede and maroon leather over a speckled sole. Its follow-up, "Water Be the Guide," drew its teal and burnt orange from Havasu Falls in Arizona. Together they showed that a designer's own story about the outdoors could carry a shoe as well as any celebrity name, and they helped bring New Balance's newer models into the same conversation as its 990s.
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Wales Bonner x adidas Samba (2020)
Wales Bonner x adidas Samba, 2020
London designer Grace Wales Bonner reworked the indoor soccer Samba, alongside the SL72 runner, in her second shoe project with adidas in 2020; the first pairs, with crochet-like uppers under brown leather overlays, arrived that November. No single collaboration revived the Samba alone, but this one is widely credited with a large part in returning it to the mainstream, and later Wales Bonner pairs kept the momentum going through the Samba wave of 2023. It pulled attention back to low, slim terrace shapes after years of chunky soles, and it showed that a menswear designer working in a narrow, considered register could set the direction for a whole brand.
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Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 (2022)
Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 by Virgil Abloh, 2021 to 2022
Abloh dressed the Air Force 1 in Louis Vuitton's signature canvases for the house's Spring/Summer 2022 runway, then designed 47 versions in all. The real test came at Sotheby's in early 2022, when 200 pairs sold for $25.3 million, with the proceeds going to his "Post-Modern" scholarship fund. When nine styles finally reached Louis Vuitton's own customers in June 2022, a basketball shoe was being sold as a fully fledged luxury product, closing the loop that Dior's Jordan opened two years earlier: the most famous sneaker shapes now sit inside the luxury calendar rather than visiting it.
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