Shiitake

Dried shiitake mushrooms Dried shiitake carry guanylate, the compound that multiplies the savory effect of glutamate, so pairing them with soy sauce, kombu or parmesan pays off twice. Soak them in warm water until soft, then slice the caps into stir-fries, risotto or a vegetable braise, and use the strained soaking liquid as stock; shiitake are the basis of a vegetarian dashi. Discard the tough stems, or simmer them in stock and fish them out. The high grade sold as donko, grown in cooler weather, is worth the extra cost for dishes where the mushrooms stay whole.